July 30: Steinbeck, Hearst, and Serra
Today we were packed and on our way by 9:00, taking 280 to 85 and then 101. Our first stop on today's foray was Salinas, home of the National Steinbeck Center, a museum and memorial dedicated to the author John Steinbeck, on 1 Main Street in Salinas, the town where he grew up. Founded in 1983, the center was finished and open to the public in 1988. The Center houses the largest collection of Steinbeck archives in the US, with various exhibits on the body of his work and philosophy. There was also a wing dedicated to the experiences of agricultural workers in the US, a topic Steinbeck was passionate about. The Center is a focal point for activities to encourage learning about literature, human nature, history, agriculture, and the arts. Many educational programs are provided for the public, students, and teachers.
After about 2 hours there, we drove to a park and had egg salad sandwiches, olives, and cherries for dessert. Then we pushed on to our Hacienda for the evening, located in the middle of a US Army Reserve training base. More about that anon. Maureen had to show her car registration, car insurance, and license IDs at the checkpoint as we entered the premises. The Hacienda, in spite of the 107 degree temperature and merely a swamp cooler for cooldown, is certainly worth staying at. It was completed in 1930 for use by the newspaper tycoon William Randolph Hearst as temporary housing for his employees and guests, and headquarters for activities taking place on the surrounding land. The building was designed by Julia Morgan, and replaced and expanded on an earlier wooden structure known as Malpitas Ranch House, which was destroyed by fire in the 1920s. It included a restaurant, lounge, cantina, offices, public assembly rooms, guest rooms, a swimming pool and a tennis court. Hearst sold the structure and its surrounding property to the US Army in 1940 for use as a training facility. The land and buildings were established by the US Army as Fort Hunter Liggett. Today, the Army owns the building and a private concessionaire operates it as a public hotel within the military base.
The valley surrounding the Hacienda was documented by Spanish explorer Portola in 1769. Father Juniperro Serra established Mission San Antonio de Padua in the valley in 1771. It converted the highest number of Native Americans to Christianity among all the missions of CA at that time. In the 1830s the mission was secularized, and holdings were divided into land grants to soldiers and civilians supportive of the Mexican government. English-speaking settlers arrived in 1849, with the discovery of gold.
At the beginning of the 20th c., gold mining petered out and Hearst started buying property in the area. He hired Julia Morgan to build a new ranch headquarters. Construction began in 1929 in the Mission Revival style, using poured concrete instead of adobe. The north tower was built in the Moorish Revival style, and it housed 30 employees. It was not originally supplied with electricity. Wires for a single telephone were run from Hearst Castle. Wood stoves and fireplaces sufficed for heat; candles and lanterns provided light, and there was a modern plumbing system. Those staying at the Hacienda year-round included the ranch manager, mechanics, gardeners, cooks, and a ranch foreman. Hearst's guests could drive or fly in and land at an adjacent landing strip, or could arrive on horseback after a full day's drive from San Simeon, Hearst's main house 30 miles away. Guests included Spencer Tracy, Dick Powell, Will Rogers, Clark Gable, Herbert Hoover, Jean Harlow, Leslie Howard and Errol Flynn (fun to speculate who might have stayed in our room!). Hearst's paramour Marion Davies stayed in one of the four tower suites when she visited. Fiestas were held in the guests' honor, with mariachis playing from the dining room balcony. Hearst did not allow hunting on his property.
In 1940, Hearst sold 160,000 acres of his land and the ranch to the US government. Along with other neighbors selling their land as well, the space was used as a training facility for the War Department. The US Army used the Hacienda to house the base commander and visiting officers. There was also an officers' club. Today, the US Army Reserve operates the base, and a civilian is allowed to run the Hacienda as a hotel open to the public and the military. Everyone coming inside the premises is monitored at the hotel checkpoint. A unique place to stay in, and I am glad to be here, in spite of the heat. The whole place puts me in the mind of the Kim Novak /James Stewart movie, "Vertigo," and its final mission scene.
Before taking a walk in the evening, we had dinner--finished the egg salad with crackers, had an avocado and plenty of watermelon for that necessary inner air conditioning. Then we drove to the Mission San Antonio de Padua (he is the patron saint of the poor), a mission established by the Franciscan order near the present-day town of Jolon. It was founded in 1771 by Father Juniperro Serra. The numbers of Native Americans reached an apex here in 1834, but eventually dropped, and the site was pilfered for roof tiles. The first attempt at rebuilding began in 1903. In 1996 an earthquake seriously damaged it, and an earthquake retrofit has to be completed by 2015 or the mission will be closed. There is an active campaign to raise money for the retrofit.
The gate was closed that led to the mission, but we took pictures from the road leading to it, as well as many photos of our Hacienda.
Right now I am trying to cope with the heat as the sun sets and the day wanes. Mind over matter! off to San Simeon tomorrow!
After about 2 hours there, we drove to a park and had egg salad sandwiches, olives, and cherries for dessert. Then we pushed on to our Hacienda for the evening, located in the middle of a US Army Reserve training base. More about that anon. Maureen had to show her car registration, car insurance, and license IDs at the checkpoint as we entered the premises. The Hacienda, in spite of the 107 degree temperature and merely a swamp cooler for cooldown, is certainly worth staying at. It was completed in 1930 for use by the newspaper tycoon William Randolph Hearst as temporary housing for his employees and guests, and headquarters for activities taking place on the surrounding land. The building was designed by Julia Morgan, and replaced and expanded on an earlier wooden structure known as Malpitas Ranch House, which was destroyed by fire in the 1920s. It included a restaurant, lounge, cantina, offices, public assembly rooms, guest rooms, a swimming pool and a tennis court. Hearst sold the structure and its surrounding property to the US Army in 1940 for use as a training facility. The land and buildings were established by the US Army as Fort Hunter Liggett. Today, the Army owns the building and a private concessionaire operates it as a public hotel within the military base.
The valley surrounding the Hacienda was documented by Spanish explorer Portola in 1769. Father Juniperro Serra established Mission San Antonio de Padua in the valley in 1771. It converted the highest number of Native Americans to Christianity among all the missions of CA at that time. In the 1830s the mission was secularized, and holdings were divided into land grants to soldiers and civilians supportive of the Mexican government. English-speaking settlers arrived in 1849, with the discovery of gold.
At the beginning of the 20th c., gold mining petered out and Hearst started buying property in the area. He hired Julia Morgan to build a new ranch headquarters. Construction began in 1929 in the Mission Revival style, using poured concrete instead of adobe. The north tower was built in the Moorish Revival style, and it housed 30 employees. It was not originally supplied with electricity. Wires for a single telephone were run from Hearst Castle. Wood stoves and fireplaces sufficed for heat; candles and lanterns provided light, and there was a modern plumbing system. Those staying at the Hacienda year-round included the ranch manager, mechanics, gardeners, cooks, and a ranch foreman. Hearst's guests could drive or fly in and land at an adjacent landing strip, or could arrive on horseback after a full day's drive from San Simeon, Hearst's main house 30 miles away. Guests included Spencer Tracy, Dick Powell, Will Rogers, Clark Gable, Herbert Hoover, Jean Harlow, Leslie Howard and Errol Flynn (fun to speculate who might have stayed in our room!). Hearst's paramour Marion Davies stayed in one of the four tower suites when she visited. Fiestas were held in the guests' honor, with mariachis playing from the dining room balcony. Hearst did not allow hunting on his property.
In 1940, Hearst sold 160,000 acres of his land and the ranch to the US government. Along with other neighbors selling their land as well, the space was used as a training facility for the War Department. The US Army used the Hacienda to house the base commander and visiting officers. There was also an officers' club. Today, the US Army Reserve operates the base, and a civilian is allowed to run the Hacienda as a hotel open to the public and the military. Everyone coming inside the premises is monitored at the hotel checkpoint. A unique place to stay in, and I am glad to be here, in spite of the heat. The whole place puts me in the mind of the Kim Novak /James Stewart movie, "Vertigo," and its final mission scene.
Before taking a walk in the evening, we had dinner--finished the egg salad with crackers, had an avocado and plenty of watermelon for that necessary inner air conditioning. Then we drove to the Mission San Antonio de Padua (he is the patron saint of the poor), a mission established by the Franciscan order near the present-day town of Jolon. It was founded in 1771 by Father Juniperro Serra. The numbers of Native Americans reached an apex here in 1834, but eventually dropped, and the site was pilfered for roof tiles. The first attempt at rebuilding began in 1903. In 1996 an earthquake seriously damaged it, and an earthquake retrofit has to be completed by 2015 or the mission will be closed. There is an active campaign to raise money for the retrofit.
The gate was closed that led to the mission, but we took pictures from the road leading to it, as well as many photos of our Hacienda.
Right now I am trying to cope with the heat as the sun sets and the day wanes. Mind over matter! off to San Simeon tomorrow!
Comments
Post a Comment