July 23: Painted Hills to Portland

This morning we arose and had yet another go at the wonderful hot tub with t=
he invigorating spring water which had so soothed us the night before.  Afte=
r packing up and enjoying a breakfast of yogurt and watermelon, we were off t=
o Malheur National Forest, Canyon City, the John Day Fossil Beds, and the Jo=
hn Day Painted Hills.  Portland was our final destination.
Under the hills and valleys of eastern Oregon is one of the richest fossil b=
eds on earth, an ancient record spanning most of the Age of Mammals.  Though=
the fossil organisms are long gone, their descendants could very well still=
be among us.  Named for the nearby river, the John Day Fossil Beds expose w=
ell-preserved specimens.  Also remarkable is the great number and variety of=
the fossils.  Entire communities have been uncovered.  There are remnants o=
f past soils, rivers, ponds, mudslides, ashfalls, middens, track-ways, prair=
ies, and forests.  In other words, the science here is ongoing, and the disc=
overies uncover an amazing array of evolutionary events: global and local ch=
anges in the distant pass, climate fluctuations, mass extinctions, and life f=
orms new to science.  Fascinating place, with ongoing research going on and a=
fine introductory film setting the stage, which we watched. =20
There are several units of the John Day Fossil Beds, and they include the Sh=
eep Rock Unit, the Clarno Unit, and the Painted Hills Unit.  Our stop was th=
e Painted Hills Unit, 10 miles west of Mitchell, Oregon, and it was there th=
at we explored two hiking paths which led us through incredibly-hued crimson=
hills, permitting, at times, a close view of the popcorn-textured claystone=
s that distinguish the Painted Hills.  On the walk closest to these wonders,=
a boardwalk had been built to protect the claystones from damage by pedestr=
ians. =20
While in the Painted Hills Unit, we stopped for lunch in a leafy enclosure, t=
hen hiked our two trails (meeting several Buddhist monks en route, all clad i=
n their beautiful saffron-colored robes).  =46rom there, we made our way thr=
ough an ever-mellowing afternoon landscape to the town of Madras, where we h=
ad burgers and fries in the Black Bear restaurant, and then proceeded to Por=
tland, where we arrived at our Air B & B at midnight.  Although I did like t=
he teepee as a unique experience, it is nice to have Wifi a