Thirsk and York, July 22, 2013

Today, both Marthe and I went to Thirsk by bus, leaving Exhibition Square at 9:18 and arriving in Thirsk at 10:23. Lying in the Vale of Mowbray, Thirsk has long been a focus of trade for quite a few villages around. The oldest buildings of the city lie on either side of the Cod Beck, the river that runs through the town. On the E bank, St. James Green was the traditional site for horse and cattle dealing. Set among good grazing land, Thirsk was the center for sheep, cattle, and horses, where the Monday market and annual fairs saw dealing in beasts and produce. Skins and hides provided raw materials for tanners and leather workers working in shops and sheds crammed into yards behind the houses. There were also corn mills and breweries, and there was trade in wool and linen. There was work for other trades as well--blacksmiths and farriers, wheelwrights, carpenters and joiners, tailors, haberdashers and the oldest drapers in the kingdom. Shopkeepers supplied the needs of town and country folk alike, while a score of taverns appeared as well. And with the building of turnpike roads in the 18th c., Thirsk became a post stage on the road from York to Edinburgh. Three of the inns were noted as coaching establishments. The coming of the railway in the 1840s and later, the growth of motor transport combined with the effects of two world wars brought changes to a way of life that had persisted for some 200 years. My main reason for going to Thirsk was to see the re-creation of the veterinary practice of James Herriot, aka Alf Wight, in Thirsk, where he served for 16 years. Its grand opening was in 1999, and since then the World of James Herriot has attracted over half a million visitors from around the globe. It showcases the life and times of Yorkshire's best loved author, Alf Wight / James Herriot of "All Creatures Great and Small" fame. Among the attractions were the following: 1. 23 Kirkgate, his address, restored to its original 1940s look, allowing visitors to journey back and experience the life and times of James Herriot; 2. a TV set, allowing visitors to get behind the scenes of the BBC series "All Creatures Great and Small," step onto the set and become one of the cast members of the series; 3. a feature film produced for the World of James Herriot, featuring previously unseen footage and interviews; 4. the restored car featured in the original series; 5. a collection of instruments--a 4000-piece archive showcasing veterinary instruments from the past to the modern day. A fascinating place, and I was as happy to see that site as I was to see the Thirsk market place and the clock that is featured in the initial episode, as James steps off the bus at "Darrowby," as Thirsk is called in the series. Afterwards, we went down the street to St. Mary's Church, an outstanding example of Perpendicular Gothic. It is over 500 years old, and was begun around the year 1420. It succeeded a Norman Church, and before that a Saxon Minster. During the Victorian period, an architect named Street very carefully restored the building. It was here that James Herriot and his wife were married. No photographs survive of the wedding, and only five people attended the wedding. After seeing the church, we were invited to lunch in a chapel next to the church, where we had an excellent celery soup, bread, butter, cheese, and a French press coffee. From there we did a guided walk with a map to 15 sites of historic and environmental interest in Thirsk and neighboring Sowerby, about 3 miles in length. In fact, one of the most interesting sites we saw was the Thorpe house, home of a Mrs. Warfield, who was a direct influence on James Herriot and the creation of the character of Mrs. Pumphrey and her princely dog, Tricky Woo in "All Creatures Great and Small." After we finished the walk, we had an ice cream in the market square before catching the 5:15 bus for York, arriving at 6:23. We quickly freshened up in our room, then went back to downtown York for fish and chips and lemonade, which we consumed on a bench across from the cathedral while listening to a fabulous pianist playing on the square--Chopin, Schubert, Mozart, and Joplin. Then we did a walk on top of the defensive walls before returning to our hotel. By the way, Kate Middleton and Crown Prince William have just had a baby boy today, so everyone is celebrating. Good news! Marthe and I had a cup of tea to celebrate the event, and now we are watching a new film about Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. Long, fascinating day today. Off tomorrow to Castle Howard. En avant!