Israel, July 17, 2013

Off we were today to Bethlehem, a Palestinian enclave, to see Jesus' birthplace, which is actually a cave, and it is located beneath the fortress-like Church of the Nativity. This was not that unusual, since Bethlehem and the area surrounding it is riddled with scores of caves to store goods and shelter animals during Biblical times. So it is possible that the stable in which Joseph and Mary lodged actually was an adjoining cave where the animals of the inn's guests were kept. Whether or not this was the actual birthplace, we do know that the present Church of the Nativity is one of the oldest churches in the world. Parts of the original structure built more than 1600 years ago are still visible in the more "modern" church that was built about 200 years later. The second church--the current Church of the Nativity--incorporated elements from the original building on the site. Both churches owe their longevity to a prominent mosaic on the outside of the building. It shows the Wise Men from the East who brought gifts to Jesus, and they are depicted in Persian attire. This apparently caused Muslim invaders on several different occasions to pass up the Church of the Nativity while they were destroying other churches or turning them into Muslim mosques. Several different Christian groups administer Bethlehem's Church of the Nativity. We were able to see the Grotto of the Nativity and the cave where Jerome spent 30 years translating the Hebrew and Greek Scriptures into his Latin Vulgate Bible. This version was the only Bible of Christians of the Middle Ages until John Wycliffe and others did their translation work on the English Bible beginning in the 1300s. We also saw the Shepherds' Fields, a plot of land on the outskirts of Bethlehem where angels announced the birth of Jesus to shepherds. After lunch in Bethlehem we crossed the border into Israel again and drove to Ein Karem. Holy Land pilgrims consistently rank this peaceful little town as one of their favorite places to visit. WIth its lovely gardens, huge shade trees, picturesque courtyards, and old Arabic-style houses, it is the perfect place for quiet contemplation. It claims to be the town where John the Baptist was born. It is also the place where Mary visited Elizabeth, and the Church of the Visitation overlooks Ein Kerem. The mosaics and paintings inside that church, and the lovely flowers, cypress trees and olive trees outside were particularly beautiful, as was the spring in the middle of the village, from which the town received its name. The water source is known as Mary's Spring because of a tradition that the Virgin Mary stopped here for a drink while visiting Elizabeth. Both were pregnant at the time, with Jesus and St. John the Baptist, respectively. And finally, we visited the Church of St. John the Baptist, which the Franciscan Order operates. Its bell tower dominates the center of the village. Underneath the church is a cave said to mark the spot where John was born, in the home of Zechariah and Elizabeth. Here the relatives haggled about what to name the baby. Elizabeth insisted that his name be John, in accordance with an angel's declaration to his father that he was to be given that name. Paintings of the salient events of his life filled the church. This whole area outside Jerusalem had a northern Italian feel to it, and it was a very restful spot. On the way back into the city, about 3/4 of us decided to get out at the Jaffa gate and walk all the way to the Damascus Gate and home, which meant traversing one shop after another, creating a bazaar where every salesman attempted to lure you in with offers placed gingerly or with outright aggressiveness. I did buy a lovely scarf for $7, but otherwise simply took it all in. Got back to the hotel at about 7:00, and had dinner with a bunch of other guests in the hotel from Martinique and Guadeloupe (Muslims) who were celebrating Lailet Sultan or Sultan's Night and made everyone wear a paper crown. Father Houk and his wife Meghan had been chosen to be Sultan and wife, and they were dancing when I entered. Very festive occasion, with even more food than usual, with kebabs the centerpiece of the dinner. Always welcome! Off to pack now, as tomorrow we have one last day in Jerusalem. Most of everyone will be flying back to the US in the evening, but Marthe and I are staying in Tel Aviv tomorrow night and then leaving for the UK the next morning. And now good night!