Jordan, July 13, 2013

It took us about four hours to travel down to Petra today, through flat country alternating with stark, lunar like hilly landscape. On the way we stopped to take photos of the Crusader palace of Al-Karak, which had been featured prominently in the film "The Kingdom of Heaven," starring Liam Neeson and Orlando Bloom. After a four hour drive, we ended in hilly Petra, where we had lunch in a good restaurant in town. Splendid selection, as usual, and as usual there were many new items to try out and possibly like. The only limit I placed on last night's offering was that I balked at eating spleen! Then we were off to ancient Petra. The ancient Nabateans were Arab tribes who originally came from the Arabian Peninsula more than 2200 years ago. Before arriving in S Jordan, they had lived a considerable time in NW Arabia, a strategic area that lay on the ancient trade routes linking China and India to the Mediterranean coastal cities and their ports. While in NW Arabia, Nabateans achieved a degree of civilization and came under the influence of foreign cultures due to the fact that they were in the caravaneering business. They became the undisputed masters of the region's trade routes, levying tolls, protecting caravans laden with Arabian frankincense and myrrh, Indian spices and silks, African ivory and animal hides. Profits from the caravaneering business enabled them to establish and organize a powerful kingdom that stretched to Damascus and included parts of the Sinai and Negev deserts, effectively ruling the greater part of Arabia even though it was under the domination of rival Greek factions, the Hasmoneans and later the Romans. Eventually, Rome subjugated them and in 106 A.D. The Nabatean civilization was annexed to the Roman Empire. However, the Nabatean civilization managed to flourish and prosper for many more years until the sources of its riches decreased due to such factors as the shift in trade routes and lesser demand for frankincense as Christianity replaced pagan religions. Eventually, the Nabatean achievements and Petra fell to ruins, but not without leaving some incredible remains that placed Petra on World Heritage status. It is 2 1/2 miles to walk to see the incredible sandstone remains which include many and varied tombs; an impressive 1200 meter long, deep, and narrow gorge of stunning natural beauty; the Treasury, with a huge facade that was carved in the 1st c. as the tomb of an important Nabatean king, and sometime later, it was believed that it was used as a temple; the Street of Facades, which are rows of Nabatean tombs with intricate carvings; a theatre carved into solid rock and seating 5000 people; Royal tombs; the Urn Tombs, carved around 70 A.D. but altered later to serve as a Byzantine church; the palace tomb, and a colonnaded street (again, a Cardo Maximus as in Jerash) which led through the city center, flanked by temples, public buildings and shops. Such an amazing shade of pink the stone turned into as the afternoon progressed. However, it felt like about 100 degrees, and pacing my way back was not an easy thing. Several of our number rode donkeys, horses, and camels for a short distance, but I was content simply to photograph them all. The Nabatean descendants now live on a hill overlooking the city, and their children spent the entire time trying to get us to buy postcards, gum, camel and horse rides, etc. until I was ready to scream at the next request! Finally got to our Hotel Amra here in Petra, and had dinner a few minutes ago--again, a buffet, and I had lentil soup, pita and hummus, and a custard for dessert. I feel gritty and need to get in the shower before I melt. And so, good night! As ever, Sylvia