Killarney, Ireland, June 23

Dear Relatives and Friends,

It is almost 7:30 in the evening, and after a long but productive day of sightseeing, I have changed into more comfortable clothes and am settling in to write about Nancy's and my day, which was quite wonderful.  A few clouds sailed overhead today, but mostly, the sun ruled and later mellowed the intense green of the countryside into a profoundly vibrant golden-reddish hue which was extraordinary.  I wish all of you could have experienced that moment with me.  
As I have not heard from any of you today, I have no targeted remarks or answers to questions, so will proceed with the narrative of the day.
Once again, Nancy and I had our yoga / granola / fruit fix this morning, along with some toasted Irish soda bread and fortifying coffee.  Then we caught the double-decker bus once again and drove back to The Muckross estate.  Once there, we had tea with scones and cream to fortify ourselves before walking 3 km to Muckross Abbey, a Franciscan friary also known by the name Irrelagh.  it was founded by the Observatine Franciscans in about 1448 by Daniel McCarthy Mor. The friars remained at Muckross at least intermittently and in spite of the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII, until Cromwellian times.  The present well-preserved ruins include a church with a wide, square tower and fine windows, and a vaulted cloister with an arcade of arches around a square courtyard.  In the middle of the courtyard grows an ancient yew tree, said to be as old as the Abbey.  Muckross Abbey was the burial place of local chieftains, and in the 17th and 18th c., the three Gaelic poets Geoffrey O'Donoghue, Aodhagan O'Rathaille, and Eoghan Rua O'Suilleabhain were buried there as well.  I persisted in looking for their grave monuments and finally found them commemorated on a plaque in the nave.  The adjoining graveyard is still in use, with a number of burials there every year.  
We spent a long time in that place, then returned to the restaurant and had lunch, which included salmon, green beans and carrots with brown bread, and some delicious vanilla ice cream for dessert.  Then we were off to our next venue on the grounds of the Muckross estate--the Traditional Farms, which depict the Ireland of the 1930s and 40s, at the same time James Herriot was beginning his veterinary practice in Thirsk. At that time, a trip to the well was still a daily chore, and electricity had yet to be introduced to the countryside.  The horse reigned supreme, and all farming activities were carried out using horsepower and traditional farm machinery.  The rhythm of life followed a yearly cycle, and the farmer's activities were governed by the seasons and the weather.  We saw three separate working farms--small, medium, and large.  Each was complete with animals, poultry, and machinery.  The farm dwellings were furnished in traditional style, complete with dressers, settlebeds and mealbins.  There was also a Laborer's Cottage, a Carpenter's Workshop, and a Blacksmith's Forge.  
State-sponsored primary school education was introduced to Ireland in 1831, and was organized at the parish level.  We saw a schoolhouse typical of many rural Irish schools built from about 1910.  Divided into two rooms internally, each teacher usually taught several different classes within the one classroom.  Pupils were expected to bring sods of turf to school for the open fires.  
From there we returned to the double-decker bus and rode back into town, and by that time our feet were hurting.  However, we wanted to go the the train station, I to print out the train ticket to Cork for Friday that I had ordered online, and Nancy to gain instructions on how to order a ticket insuring that she could sit by me.  Several gentlemen were very helpful, especially given the fact that the ticket counter was closed.  Our questions were answered.  We didn't want to eat out, so bought some chicken wraps, juices, yogurt and grapes at a little carry out at the filling station close to our hotel.  A big group of American teenagers is staying here as well tonight.  Enjoying my chicken wrap and currant juice while writing this.  More tomorrow!  Feet could use a break tonight, but it was a stellar day!   

Comments

  1. I'm sure you must've meant your yogurt fix instead of your yoga fix -- though I do love the image of you doing yoga on the morning glen.Sounds like a great day! Will massage your feet upon your arrival in Seattle.

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