Prague: June 30

Today, all of us got up and readied ourselves to go up to the Prague Castle.  It was most likely founded in about 880, and according to the Guinness Book of World Records, it is the largest coherent castle complex in the world.  A UNESCO World Heritage site, it consists of a large-scale composition of palaces and ecclesiastical buildings of various architectural styles, from Roman through Gothic.  Dempsey, Alexandra and I got on Tram 22 and got out at the E end, where we explored the Belvedere (a summer palace), the Royal Garden, the Riding School (now an exhibiton hall) and the perching of several capped raptors for a further presentation.  At that point, Dempsey left us and we went on to get tickets for St. Vitus Cathedral and the Basilica of St. George.  Since I had been in St. Vitus before, I mainly went for Alexandra's sake, singling out the burial chapel of St. Wenceslas, the coronation and burial place of Czech kings, the window commemorating Cyril and Methodius, by Alfons Mucha; and the silver tomb of St. John Nepomuk, in silver and silver-gilt.  We also went to the 10th c. Basilica of St. George, with its crypt, chapel of Ludmilla, and a few ceiling paintings still well preserved.  From there we returned to the former riding stables and a restaurant closeby that Dempsey had recommended.  Alexandra and I had a type of beef roast in a very fine sauce and accompanied by medaillons of bread filled with cranberries, which were delightful dipped in the sauce.  We ate outside, then proceeded back  to the Castle complex to see the Golden Lane.  Kafka spent the years 1916-1917 in house #22.  The Golden Lane originated after the construction of the N wall of the Castle, and this area was used for the building of modest dwellings.  They were inhabited by the castle servants, perhaps goldsmiths and castle marksmen.  The tiny houses were occupied until WW II, but already during the First Republic, care was taken to insure that the picturesque  character  of the lane was not changed in the course of modification.  At the end of the street we accessed a terrace in front of the Dalborka Tower, with first-rate views of Prague.  It was from here that we descended via steps through some of the most beautiful terraced gardens I have ever seen, the Garden of the Ramparts, cultivated as a natural park in the mid-19th c., forming a green belt beneath most of the southern face of Prague Castle.  I took tons of pictures and was thoroughly delighted, especially since most of the crowds of tourists had skipped the gardens and we had them all to ourselves.  We walked back to Dempsey's apartment, stopping along the way in a shop where I bought a Prague tile and some wonderful match box holders with Prague themes.  At the Charles Bridge we bought ice cream (pistachio for me, chocolate for Alexandra), and then we returned at ca. 4:00 p.m.  Talked with Dempsey, and now it is raining, so we are going to stay in for the night.  As this pace can be a bit exhausting, it is best that way.  Salad later, followed by a viewing of "Auntie Mame" tonight.  A night to stay in!