Dresden, Germany: June 24

Today, Alexandra and I slept late, then had breakfast with Dempsey.  She ordered us a taxi and we sped off at ca. 11:00 to the main train station to catch the EC 174 to Dresden, with intermediary stop in Bad Scandau and going on to Berlin and then Hamburg-Altona.  The train departed a bit late, but not much later than its stated departure of 12:29.  The journey took us about 2 hours 20 minutes, and we passed through increasingly hilly cointry and followed the Elbe River up to Dresden.  The car we rode in, reserved seats and all, was hot as blazes, and Alexandra, in her crazed-heat state, thought that  the term "Dresdner Hbf," which means Dresden M ain Train Station, had something to do with the heat of the car!  Eventually we moved to another car, which was much cooler and more amenable.  We walked all the way to our Aparthotel in Münzgasss from the train station, which was quiteba trek, especially since we were carrying bags.  We are exceedingly well located, close to the Elbe and the landing platforms for the boats, and next door to both the Albertinum and the Frauenkirche.  Dresden was originally a Slav village and stood in the shadow of nearby Meissen until its period of glory came about in the early 18th c. under the rule of Augustus der Starke.  He gathered around him a brilliant group of artists, architects and craftsmen who transformed the city into a great European capital built in a distinctive, highly decorative Baroque style.  The city also built on its distinguished musical tradition during the Romantic period, becoming one of Europe's leading performance centers, a position it has retained  to this day.  Since our hotel is so close to it, our first stop was the Frauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady.  By the way, our little apartment features a living room, serviceable kitchen, good bathroom with tub, and very comfortable beds, and we can hear music from various restaurants and pubs, as well as al fresco performance by singers in front of the Frauenkirche.  Last time I had seen that church, it lay in ruins as a result of the firebombing of Dresden in February of 1945.  All the bricks were numbered and lay on a conveyor belt, awaiting restoration.  The very latest computer technology was utilized to make this the most faithful reconstruction project ever undertaken.  It was moving to see it standing proud in the square, and when we went out once more later in the evening to buy some groceries, there were singers performing arias in front of the church. As a duet from Lehar's "Land des Lächelns" ended and the bells of the city churches began to toll, I was moved to tears and wished that my mother had been there in spirit to witness that moment.  As it was, I enjoyed it with my favorite person on earth--Alexandra.  What a gift!  We also walked by the Johanneum, a former stables, along the wall of which was a huge, turn-of-the-century Meissen porcelain frieze, the "Fürstenzug," showing a procession of all the ruling members of the Wettin dynasty, of which Augustus the Strong was a part.  Our last stop for the day was the Hofkirche, the seat of a Roman Catholic bishop and the largest church in Saxony.  The part of the church which appealed to me most was a memorial chapel with pieta.  The chapel had once been dedicated to St. John Nepomuk.  Since 1976 it has been used as a place of commemoration both for the victims of the firebombing in 1945 and for all victims of unjust violence.  The Dresden sculptor Friedrch Press created the Pieta and altar out of Meissen porcelain.  Although I am no fan of the sculpture, it is a stirring memorial that acts as a warning to future generations.  Scriptures and prayers around the chapel remind us that we may receive remission of our sins and eternal peace only through our love of Christ.  From there we walked the terrace overlooking the Elbe and headed for our apartment, where we decided to forego any museums, as it had been a long day and we were both tired.  After a drink we got out once more, went to a nearby grocery store and bought soups, Boursin cheese and table water crackers; tea, marzipan, peaches, currants, Muesli, and milk.  Ate dinner ravenously, and Alexandra, suffering from ragwood allergies, is currently writing postcards and will then turn it.  I myself want to do a good soak in the bathtub, and look forward to savoring all the great art museums on offer tomorrow.  And so good night!