June 28: Cornwall

The morning clouds were menacing, and we knew from all weather reports that close to gale-force winds were in the forecast.  After breakfast we armed ourselves with rain paraphernalia, which proved to be next to useless as we were drenched by rains and hunched over by the force of the wind.  One of the cast members of the series “Poldark” had mentioned in an interview how difficult it was sometimes to hear fellow cast members when the wind started playing havoc with scenes.  Of course, once the footage hit the production stage, the excess noise was erased electronically.  But the actors and we got the full brunt of the power of the sea.  

We traveled in the direction of Penzance to the heart of Cornwall’s mining country, past Mounts Bay and the spectacular tidal island of St. Michael’s Mount.  The Mount is opposite the town of Marazion.  According to ancient Roman historians, the Mount was the island of Ictis, an important center for the Cornish tin trade during the Iron Age.  It is dedicated to the archangel Michael who, according to legend, appeared here in 495.  It bears a distinct resemblance to Mont St. Michel in Normandy, and in fact, Benedictine monks established a priory there.  After the Dissolution of the Monasteries, it was virtually absorbed into a fortress.  

The tidal island of St. Michael’s Mount is half a mile offshore.  At low water a causeway links it to the town of Marazion, and at high water passenger boats carry visitors between Marazion and St. Michael’s Mount.  The Mount is managed by the National Trust, and the castle and chapel have been the home of the St. Aubyn family since about 1650.  

Our next stop was a quick one at Marazion, where I bought orange marmalade  and two laser-etched Christmas ornaments, as well as an artisanal gift made in Cornwall for Alexandra.  

From Marazion we drove off the beaten track, visiting the fishing inlet of Penberth Cove, which was featured in many scenes from Series 2 of “Poldark.”  Penberth is a valley, a coastal village, and cove on the Penwith Peninsula of Cornwall.  It is about 7 miles from Penzance.  Penberth Cove was once home to the pilchard industry (pilchards can be compared to sardines).  It is one of the last remaining traditional fishing coves in Cornwall, with a handful of local fishermen still making their living from fishing for mackerel, lobster and crab.  By the time we got to it, the wind and rain were battering us quite fiercely.  It all worsened by the time we got to our next stop, the Minack Theatre, an open-air theatre constructed above a gully, with a rock granite outcrop jutting into the sea.  The theatre is at Porthcurno, 4 miles from Land’s End.  It has appeared in a listing of the world’s most spectacular theatres.  It was the brainchild of Rowena Cade, her mother and her sister, who moved to Cornwall after WW II.  We went to the little attached museum and watched a film on the theatre, then each had a hot chocolate before plunging out of the theatre and making a quick exit for the van, as both wind and rain lashed around us.  

Our next venue was to drive past the heritage site of Botallack.  The mines here feature as Grambler, the perilously sited and ill-fated mine belonging to Francis Poldark, and the mines of Wheal Leisure and Wheal Grace.  Since 2006, Botallack has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site-Cornwall and West Devon Mining Landscape.  It is unclear how far back mining activity goes in this location.  Early records date from the 1500s.  Some archaeological evidence points to mining here in the Roman era or even as far back as the Bronze Age.  It closed in 1895 as a result of falling tin ad copper prices.

Our last stop of the day was St. Ives, known for its surf beaches and its art scene.  The seafront Tate St. Ives gallery has rotating modern art exhibits focusing on British artists.  The Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden are here as well.  Our main thrust here, however, was to do a bit of shopping (I bought two pairs of flats with good foot support, a much-needed purchase).  In about 30 minutes we met at a pub at the seafront, and it was still raining and quite chilly.  A good hot tea set things right again soon.  

After our rain-sodden day we returned to Perranporth.  My wash had been done, and I immediately went to the restaurant downstairs for squash and leek soup, along with some wonderful bread and butter.  Now I am thawing out, as the experience of North Atlantic bluster was quite eye-opening.  However, we got much accomplished, and that is something to be proud of.