June 19: Stockholm

Our next-to-last day in Stockholm, and we have laid back about 8 miles today.  My feet feel as if they have been pounded by a sledgehammer, my ankles are aching, and I am about to put my feet up after today’s marathon walking event.  

Following a gathering of everyone for the breakfast buffet—I am stocking up on lingonberries, orange marmalade, soft-boiled eggs, Swedish butter and bread that is renowned for its crust and its incredible taste—we left on foot for Gamla Stan (the Old Quarter) for a guided walk with our leader Gabriela, followed by a short ferry trip to the island of Djurgarden to visit the Vasaship Museum.  Here we enjoyed a guided tour of the museum by Gabriela.  

The Vasa warship, the pride of the Swedish fleet, was built on the order of King Gustav II Adolf.  It sank in Stockholm harbor on her maiden voyage in 1628.  A victim of engineering miscalculations and insufficient maritime knowledge, the Vasa’s hull was too narrow to withstand the slightest swell, which, when coupled with top-heavy rigging, made her a maritime disaster waiting to happen.  On August 10, 1628, she went down with all hands, barely 300 meters from her moorings.  Preserved in mud for over 300 years, the ship was raised along with 12,000 objects in 1961, and now forms the centerpiece of a purpose-built hall on the water’s edge.  

After a tour of the Vasa Museum, we had a quick lunch, then continued on to the Photography Museum, which took a while on foot to get to.  Our patience was rewarded by getting to see the celebrity photographs of Terry O’Neill, Black fashion photographs by truly gifted photographers, and an exhibition of Andy Warhol’s photographs.  A well-chosen way to spend 2 1/2 hours.  But then we had to walk another 45 minutes to get back to our hotel, and my feet protested every step of the way.  Nancy and I had neither time nor inclination to buy groceries, so instead had room service, consisting of a Caesar salad with bacon and cheese and prepared with a light sauce which had a much lighter-handed approach than usual American versions.  A signature chocolate with sea salt rounded out the dinner, and we had some of the best pear juice we had ever tasted.  

Tomorrow we are off to our last day of Scandinavian adventuring before dispersing.