July 29: La Paz Waterfall Gardens, and Finca Paraíso

Dear Friends and Relatives,

Today was our last full day in Costa Rica, and we took full advantage of it.  At 7:00, Federico left the house to get the cleaning lady and her two little sons.  Afterwards, we had a quick breakfast and then departed for the La Paz Waterfall Gardens, about 2 1/2 hours away, close to the Poás and Cinchona volcanos.  It is one of Costa Rica's most popular attractions.  In 2009, the gardens bore the brunt of the Cinchona earthquake, with landslides washing out many of the trails and causing extensive damage to the grounds, closing the garden for about five months.  The resulting renovations have returned La Paz to its former glory and enabled the owners to make a number of improvements and additions.  

There are 3.5 km of walking trails and 10 animal exhibits, and our visit took us about 3 hours.  The park ranges in altitude from 4200 to 5200 ft.  Cloud forest and rain forest are represented.  Self-guided tours meander through a garden planted with native shrubs and flowers, taking in a butterfly observatory, orchid display, frog house, snake garden, hummingbird garden with 26 documented species; toucans, marmosets, two-toed sloths, Capuchin and black-handed spider monkeys, and the newest attraction, a jungle cat exhibit.  It is now home to six of Costa Rica's cats: jaguars, pumas, ocelots, jaguarundis, and margays.  

Beyond the frog house, an immaculate series of riverside trails links 5 waterfalls on the Río La Paz, starting with Tempio and winding past Magia Blanca, the highest, which crashes deafeningly 40 m down into swirling whitewater, before concluding at the top of the La Paz Waterfall, Costa Rica's most photographed cascade.  Viewing platforms at various points along the way place the visitor above and beneath the falls.  

Before getting lunch, we had a look at the gift shop, then took the shuttle back to the front gates and re-entered in order to take lunch at the Colibries Restaurant, whose buffet has received the Highest Rating possible from the Tourist Council.  It includes multiple selections of traditional Costa Rican dishes, full salad bar, etc.  

From La Paz, Federico took us to our last stop in driving rain--the Finca Paraíso Mountain Retreat, about eight miles from the airport and in the town of Chagüite.  It has an Exceptional rating, and our room is a deluxe suite with jacuzzi bath and sauna!  This splendid place offers an indoor heated pool and spa, as well as a spa and wellness center.  There is a garden view from our room, and extras include an outdoor seating area.  A truly beautiful, magical place, as I sit here listening to my classical station, gazing upon the fog rolling over the hillside, and writing this ultimate blog.  Tonight we are having a vegetarian pizza delivered, and tomorrow, we have breakfast at 7:00 a.m., after which Alexandra and I will have 30-minute massages and then depart for the airport.  Alexandra, right now, is enjoying a soak in the jacuzzi tub, and she is doing a mask while enjoying the views of the hillside surrounding us here.  

I hate to leave this Eden tomorrow, but must do so.  What a series of visits these have been!  Spain, Portugal, Ireland, San Francisco, Indianapolis, and Costa Rica--each with its own particular charms.  As soon as I return and have replaced my old computer tower with a new one, I will put together the many photographs I have taken--excised, cropped, and lit to perfection!  Stay tuned!  As ever, Sylvia and Alexandra

Sylvia M. Venable, PhD

Instructor, German

St. John's Episcopal School

Dallas, Texas