July 24: Ujarras, Cartago, Costa Rica

Dear Friends and Relatives,

Greetings this late afternoon.  We just returned from a wonderful day out sightseeing with our fine guide Federico, and he is so exhausted that he has gone off for a nap, while we read, look at the ever-stunning view in front of us, and I write you this missive.

This morning, after a wonderful breakfast of toasted baguette with black bean topping, yogurt with honey, and coffee (which, by the way, is Costa Rican and full-bodied), we boarded the van for our first venue in Ujarrás:  the Iglesia de la Nuestra Señora de la Limpia Concepción.  It was built between 1681 and 1683 on the site of a shrine erected by a local fisherman, who claimed to have seen the Virgin in a tree trunk.  The church was abandoned in 1833 after irreparable damage due to flooding.  Today, the limestone ruins are tended by a full-time gardener, who takes care of the landscaped grounds.  The ruined interior, reached through what used to be the door, is now a grassy, roofless enclosure.  

Next, we drove to Cartago and visited the local police station, which houses an art museum featuring the works of local artists, including a 50 ft. mural by Guadalupe Alvarez, depicting the history of Cartago.  Then we went to another ruined church, the Iglesia de la Parroquía, known as Las Ruinas.  The church dominates the Parque Central of Cartago, and was originally built in 1575.  It was repeatedly destroyed by earthquakes, but was stubbornly rebuilt every time.  Eventually, however, the giant earthquake in 1910 conquered it for good.  Only the walls remain, enclosing beautiful subtropical gardens.  

From there we headed to the extensive market, where we saw booths selling baked good, meats, cheeses, toys, shoes, veggies, fruits, flowers, and dog food.  As it was almost noon, we had lunch with Federico in one of the food booths.  Federico had an empanada with cheese.  Alexandra and I had a very moist Costa Rican tamale and a chorizo-type of puffy jerky, with flour tortillas and tomatoes on the side, as well as pickled peppers.  Later on, as we were walking to the Basilica, we stopped for churros, a star-shaped fried pastry tube which had been rolled in sugar.  Very good!  

Our next stop was the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de los Angeles, built in a decorative Byzantine style after the previous basilica was destroyed in an earthquake in 1926.  This huge, cement gray structure with its elaborate wood-paneled interior, is home to La Negrita, the representation of the Virgin of Los Angeles, patron saint of Costa Rica.  On this spot on August 2, 1635, the Virgin reportedly showed herself to a poor peasant girl in the form of a dark doll made of stone.  Each time the girl took the doll away to play with it, it reappeared on the spot where she had found it.  This was seen as a sign, and the church was built soon after.  Its interior, with its soft glow from the wood paneling and its lovely stenciling of the columns, was gorgeous, but we did not walk around, as there was a mass going on.  

From there we headed to our next stop, the Lankester Botanical Garden, a center for research for the University of Costa Rica, created in 1973 due to the international efforts of scientists and conservationists.  Its mission is the research of orchids and other epiphytes, to preserve Earth's biological diversity and to inspire and improve people's quality of life.  Collections included orchids (with 1500 species!); a Japanese garden, a secondary forest, cacti and succulents, ferns, zingiberales (such as heliconias, birds of paradise, bananas); bromeliads, and palms.  A thoroughly delightful two hours spent in the company of lush tropical splendor.  Alexandra and I were snapping photos, and she even succeeded in making a delightful video of leafcutter ants carrying away small sections of leaves!  

From there we drove to Cachi Lake and a little café overlooking the lake, called Chumi.  While Federico had plantain, Alexandra and I had a watermelon/strawberry smoothie, which was perfection itself.  

And now it is almost 5:30 p.m., and we are back at home.  We have completely exhausted Federico, who is taking a nap, while Alexandra reads and I pen this missive.  Federico may go out again this evening to visit his grandmother, who is celebrating her 90th birthday today.  We will stay in and eat leftovers from last night's splendid repast.  Glorious day!  As ever, Sylvia and Alexandra

Sylvia M. Venable, PhD

Instructor, German

St. John's Episcopal School

Dallas, Texas