June 11: Mertola, crossing into Spain, and Carmona

Dear Friends and Relatives,

Today we were on our way again, heading to Spain through the south of Portugal.  Our stop before the border was the town of Mertola, a fine example of the Muslim presence in Portugal until the 13th c., when the Portuguese reconquered the region.  

Mertola is set on a spur above the confluence of the Guadiana and Oeiras rivers and guarded by the ruin of a Moorish frontier castle.  Mertola's history goes back as far as Phoenician times, when it was an important river port, and it was later fortified and expanded by both Romans and Moors, before being taken in 1238 as part of the Christian Reconquest.  With the walled town occupying such a small area, successive conquerors and settlers built on what they found, which provides Mertola with the evidence of thousands of years of habitation in almost every building and street.  

The object of our walk with our guide was the Castelo and Alcacova do Castelo.  From the castle, the layout of the walled old town became clear.  Just outside it is an excavated site with iron walkways over ruins of the Moorish village, as well as earlier Roman cisterns, a Christian baptistry, and a later Christian cemetery.  

From there we walked back down, and everyone scattered for lunch and strolls through the town, before continuing another 1 1/2 hours into Spain.  On the way, our tour guide Louisa offered insights into the similarities, rivalries, and shared history of Portugal and Spain.  We arrived in the late afternoon at Carmona, known as Carmo in the time of Julius Caesar.  It was a Roman stronghold known as Hispania Baetica.  During their occupation of the town, the Moors erected walls around it, and built fountains and palaces within.  In 1247, Ferdinand III of Castile captured the town and bestowed on it a Latin motto which, translated, means: "As the morning star shines in the dawn, so shines Carmona in Andalucia."  

Our parador is within the the parameters of the old fortified walls.  Once a 14th c. fortress, this Parador offers spectacular views over the countryside.  There is a pool and elegant restaurant, where we just had dinner.  It has a central Moorish courtyard with fountain.  A fine example of Moorish architecture, the Parador de Carmona boasts fine design details, including that stunning courtyard, vaulted ceilings, original stonework, and spacious terraces.  There is a Moorish fountain, and one can stroll through the gardens and enjoy a quiet read or sit-down under the arched galleries.  Sevillian tiling enhances the 14th c. citadel's features.  Spaces are filled with tapestries and antique furniture which is in complete harmony with the building's history.  

Rather tired tonight, I am looking forward to enjoying Carmona and Seville tomorrow, after beginning the day with a lecture by a native guide concerning both cities and the history of Andalucia and the importance of Cordoba, Sevilla, and Granada, the jewels in its crown.  More tomorrow!  As ever, Sylvia /Mami

Sylvia M. Venable, PhD

Instructor, German

St. John's Episcopal School

Dallas, Texas