June 13: Cordoba

Dear Friends and Relatives,

Today's day trip took us to Cordoba, former capital of the Muslim Caliphate of al-Andalus.  Like Sevilla, Cordoba lies on the Guadalquivir River.  It is now a minor provincial capital, but once it was the largest city of Roman Spain, and for three centuries it formed the heart of the western Islamic empire.  It is from this era that the city's major monument dates: the Mezquita--the grandest and most beautiful mosque ever constructed by the Moors in Spain.  It stands in the center of the city, surrounded by old Jewish and Moorish quarters.  After the Moorish conquest of Spain, it was used as a mosque.  The site was re-consecrated Christian, and a cathedral was erected in 1523 inside the confines of the mosque.  It is one of the most emblematic Islamic monuments in Spain, and a unique example of the interplay of Christian and Muslim cultures in the country.  

We entered at the Patio de los Naranjos, a large courtyard, and gazed up at the bell tower built over the remains of the original Muslim minaret.  Walking in, we encountered a forest of delicate columns (800 of them) topped with double arches.  The low ceilings and dense columns create an intimate atmosphere.  Another highlight of the mosque is the mihrab, the mosque equivalent of a church's high altar.  And rising up in the middle of the forest of columns is the bright and newly restored cathedral.  All in all, there was a superb blend of Moorish and Christian elements which jarred and at the same time intrigued.  

From the Mezquita we were off to explore the Jewish Quarter, dating from the late Middle Ages, after Muslim rule and during the Christian era.  Little remains, but after lunch, Barbara, Janet and I sought out a sense of the neighborhood of the place by visiting the Casa de Sefarad, viewing exhibits on the daily life of the Sephardic Jews there; the Sephardic women of al-Andalus, the courtyard of a synagogue, Jewish festivities, the Jewish quarter of Cordoba, the Maimonides room, honoring the great Moorish philosopher and physician; the Inquisition Room, treating the persecution of the Jews; and the Music Room.  

Our last stop before lunch was a trio of beautiful patios within the Jewish section of town, and these patios belonged to families and were covered floor to ceiling with an abundance of plantings, many of which were still in bloom and featured orchids, geraniums, fuchsia, oleander, beautifully trained ivy, as well as animals such as turtles and caged birds.  These patios have won prizes throughout the years and are a great source of pride among their owners.

Then we were off to sample 7 different tapas at a restaurant called Al Mudeina.  Our tapas included the following:

1. Gazpacho soup with bread;

2. Pork with pimentos and mushrooms;

3. Chopped tortillas with egg, baked;

4. Deep-fried eggplant;

5. Shrimp on lettuce, with oil and vinegar dressing, and pepper;

6. Fried codfish cubes;

7. Flan, with espresso.

Of course there was regional wine and sparkling water as well.  Afterwards, as stated before, we went to the Casa de Sefarad, and also to several crafts establishments to look at locally made objects.  However, as it was around 3:00 p.m., lots of establishments were shut for siesta time, and who could blame them, as the temperature soared to at least 99 degrees, if not more.  

Late in the afternoon, we arrived back to our Parador here at the top of Carmona.  After blogging, I have in mind to explore the town of Carmona once more before leaving tomorrow for Ronda and Granada.  Great day again!  I am so enjoying this trip!  As ever, Sylvia

Sylvia M. Venable, PhD

Instructor, German

St. John's Episcopal School

Dallas, Texas