July 11: Chartres
Dear Friends and Relatives,
This morning, all of us got up early; Paula’s husband, Jean, for his work, and Paula, Kay and I for an early morning of subways and trains to get to Chartres. As many of you know, both train and metro stations are not for the slow, so we played the dodging game as well as anyone did. Doing this with luggage becomes even more interesting, and I am so glad I brought a small suitcase instead of a large one, especially on a trip like this. Before boarding the train at Gare Montparnasse for Chartres, we had an early morning coffee and a veggie wrap. The ride took about an hour. Chartres is approximately 50 km from Paris, and trains run at least every hour on weekdays.
From the station we walked to the cathedral, which you notice immediately by its two unequal towers. Chartres Cathedral is touted as “one of the world’s most astonishing buildings,” and it is best experienced early or late in the day, when the light shows the stained glass to its best advantage and when the crowds are not as large.
Chartres Cathedral was built between 1194 and 1260. It was one of the quickest cathedrals constructed, and as a result preserves a uniquely harmonious design. An earlier Romanesque structure burned down in 1194, but the church’s important relic, the Sancta Camisa (thought to be the robe Mary wore when she gave birth to Jesus) was discovered three days later, totally unharmed. It was considered to be a sign that this was the place that the Virgin wanted to have her church rebuilt.
The cathedral’s official name is Notre Dame de Chartres, and hundreds and thousands of pilgrims stopped on their way south to the shrine of Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Notre Dame de Chartres needed to be able to accommodate all of them with a sizable crypt for the veneration of the Sancta Camisa, and a nave large enough to sleep hundreds. The sloping floor allowed for it to be washed down more easily.
The building is unique in being almost unaltered since its consecration. Virtually all of its stained glass is original and unsurpassed 13th century work. Many of the windows of the nave were donated by crafts guilds and merchants. The stained glass features the lives of biblical figures, prophets, Maria, Christ, apostles, and various saints. And the cathedral’s stonework, particularly the choir screen, which curves around the ambulatory and depicts scenes from the life of Christ, is amazing! Outside, sculpted figures, guardianlike, stand at each entrance portal. The effect of all of it together with the massive flying buttresses is stupendous. We spent about 4 hours, 1 1/2 hours of which were with British historian Malcolm Miller, who has written several books on Notre Dame de Chartres. He concentrated on several glass window, the South Porch of the cathedral, and history of the cathedral. It would take an entire lifetime to begin to know everything about this, a “picture-book of the entire Christian story,” as Mr. Miller calls it.
After touring the church, we had lunch at Cafe Serpente, in the shadow of the cathedral. I had salmon and arugula, with some French bread—a repeat of yesterday’s lunch. I have a real affinity for that dish. After lunch we went to the Centre International du Vitrail (International Center of Stained Glass), stressing the techniques of stained glassmaking and exhibiting both Medieval and contemporary stained glass. From there we stopped by a stained glass store, and there were so many pieces I wanted to buy on the spot! However, that was not possible, so I took photos of several of my favorites, now occupying an honored space in Facebook. Please check FB and let me know if you like my choices.
Have just finished dinner and a French movie at home. Am off to pack, with a noon flight tomorrow from CDG to Washington-Dulles Airport, and then to Dallas. Take care, and I will resume blogging on July 16, when I start the Massachusetts/New Hampshire trip. As ever, SV.
This morning, all of us got up early; Paula’s husband, Jean, for his work, and Paula, Kay and I for an early morning of subways and trains to get to Chartres. As many of you know, both train and metro stations are not for the slow, so we played the dodging game as well as anyone did. Doing this with luggage becomes even more interesting, and I am so glad I brought a small suitcase instead of a large one, especially on a trip like this. Before boarding the train at Gare Montparnasse for Chartres, we had an early morning coffee and a veggie wrap. The ride took about an hour. Chartres is approximately 50 km from Paris, and trains run at least every hour on weekdays.
From the station we walked to the cathedral, which you notice immediately by its two unequal towers. Chartres Cathedral is touted as “one of the world’s most astonishing buildings,” and it is best experienced early or late in the day, when the light shows the stained glass to its best advantage and when the crowds are not as large.
Chartres Cathedral was built between 1194 and 1260. It was one of the quickest cathedrals constructed, and as a result preserves a uniquely harmonious design. An earlier Romanesque structure burned down in 1194, but the church’s important relic, the Sancta Camisa (thought to be the robe Mary wore when she gave birth to Jesus) was discovered three days later, totally unharmed. It was considered to be a sign that this was the place that the Virgin wanted to have her church rebuilt.
The cathedral’s official name is Notre Dame de Chartres, and hundreds and thousands of pilgrims stopped on their way south to the shrine of Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Notre Dame de Chartres needed to be able to accommodate all of them with a sizable crypt for the veneration of the Sancta Camisa, and a nave large enough to sleep hundreds. The sloping floor allowed for it to be washed down more easily.
The building is unique in being almost unaltered since its consecration. Virtually all of its stained glass is original and unsurpassed 13th century work. Many of the windows of the nave were donated by crafts guilds and merchants. The stained glass features the lives of biblical figures, prophets, Maria, Christ, apostles, and various saints. And the cathedral’s stonework, particularly the choir screen, which curves around the ambulatory and depicts scenes from the life of Christ, is amazing! Outside, sculpted figures, guardianlike, stand at each entrance portal. The effect of all of it together with the massive flying buttresses is stupendous. We spent about 4 hours, 1 1/2 hours of which were with British historian Malcolm Miller, who has written several books on Notre Dame de Chartres. He concentrated on several glass window, the South Porch of the cathedral, and history of the cathedral. It would take an entire lifetime to begin to know everything about this, a “picture-book of the entire Christian story,” as Mr. Miller calls it.
After touring the church, we had lunch at Cafe Serpente, in the shadow of the cathedral. I had salmon and arugula, with some French bread—a repeat of yesterday’s lunch. I have a real affinity for that dish. After lunch we went to the Centre International du Vitrail (International Center of Stained Glass), stressing the techniques of stained glassmaking and exhibiting both Medieval and contemporary stained glass. From there we stopped by a stained glass store, and there were so many pieces I wanted to buy on the spot! However, that was not possible, so I took photos of several of my favorites, now occupying an honored space in Facebook. Please check FB and let me know if you like my choices.
Have just finished dinner and a French movie at home. Am off to pack, with a noon flight tomorrow from CDG to Washington-Dulles Airport, and then to Dallas. Take care, and I will resume blogging on July 16, when I start the Massachusetts/New Hampshire trip. As ever, SV.
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