June 30: Tallinn, Estonia
Dear Friends and Relatives,
Today was the first sightseeing day here in Tallinn, Estonia. As we had to adjust to the new time, both Elaine and I were awake at 4:30 a.m. and watched an amazing sunrise, as roseate clouds raced each other across the sky. So beautiful! We were glad to have the extra time to watch morning’s awakening and the busy activity of two beehives across the roof from us. As the sun’s power increased on the scene, the industrious bees swarmed here and there in what seemed like total bliss.
We were washed and dressed by 7:00 a.m., when we went downstairs to have breakfast, which had several stations appealing to any type of the hunger scale. What joy it was to have a soft-boiled egg, a truly flavorful roll and currant jelly (it is now currant ripening season all over the European continent), fresh fruit and strong but bracing coffee. Elaine and I were approached by fellow traveler (there are 24 on the trip), Rick Ludmerer from California, who ate with us and with whom we had a scintillating conversation ranging across all kinds of subjects, but concentrating mostly on great classic movies.
After breakfast, we had a lecture by a university professor, entitled “General overview of the Baltic states: Modern Estonia as a member of the EU.” He also entertained a lengthy Q & A session during and after the lecture, which surprised me as he crafted a picture of the Soviet Union as a continuing factor in the push-me, pull-you relations it has with the Baltic States as borders have been drawn but whose future as independent states from each other is still under question and unresolved.
To give you a few tidbits on Estonia’s capital, Tallinn, allow me to indulge in a bit of setup: Tallinn is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in northern Europe. The cobblestoned alleyways, slender steeples and barrel-shaped bastions of the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, could have come from a medieval manuscript. However, as medieval as it appears, it is also one of the fastest growing economies in the European Union.
Tallinn was the capital of an independent Estonia from 1918-1940, and has been the capital again from 1991 onwards. The city’s name is derived from the Estonian term which means “Danish fort”—a reminder of the fact that the city was founded by the Danes at the beginning of the 13th c. Since then, political control has been in the hands of several foreigners—Swedes, Germans, and Russians. Russians continue to make up about 45% of the population, and the Russian language persists, even though Estonian is the main language of Estonia.
Tallinn is the oldest of the three Baltic States. It began life as a fortified Estonian trading post. Its urban history began in 1219, when it was conquered by the Danes. A castle and cathedral were built on a rock now known as Toompea, and a town of merchants and craftsmen soon grew up at the base of the rock below. Most were of Flemish or German ancestry, and they called Tallinn Reval until 1918. By the 14th c. Tallinn had become a member of the Hanseatic League, a trading alliance which counted many northern cities among its members. The townspeople adopted Protestantism in the early 1500s. By 1524, lots of Catholic medieval altarpieces were destroyed in Tallinn, and monks had to flee for their lives.
Russians and Swedes fought over Tallinn in the 16th c., but Swedish control ended in 1710 when Russia’s Peter the Great’s army took the city. For the next two centuries, Tallinn was part of the Russian Empire. By the early 19th c., Tallinn had established itself as the most fashionable bathing resort in the region, with the cream of St. Petersburg society taking up residence in the town for the whole month of July. However, with the arrival of the railway in 1870, Tallinn was transformed into an important fort and industrial center, ending its days as a seaside resort.
At the beginning of the 19th c., less than one third of Tallinn’s populace had been Estonian. This proportion doubled 100 years later, and Estonia began to focus on a nationalistic movement. After WW II, Soviet rule of Estonia led to further industrialization and the construction of faceless high-rises in the suburbs to accommodate a work force largely imported from the USSR. However, Old Town, which we visited today, survived Soviet rule quite well. Estonia finally gained its independence, and membership in the EU and an influx of foreign investment helped as well. I mention these factors to show you how convoluted and delicate the situation is in this Baltic state.
The first venue we visited today was Kadriorg Park and Palace. Kadriorg is about 2 km east of Old TOwn, and we were driven there by bus. The grounds have been planted with oak, chestnut, and lime trees, crisscrossed with avenues and with a palace in its center built for Tsar Peter the Great. After his conquest of Estonia in 1711, he began planning a park as a gift to his mistress, Marta Skravonskaya, a serving girl of Lithuanian origin. She was taken as war booty by General Sheremetiev during one of his campaigs, and then was presented to Peter in 1703. She remained the tsar’s companion, becoming Empress Catherine in 1724. Peter, who supervised the planting of the trees, always intended the park to be open to the public. In the mid-19th c., when Tallinn was one of the Russian Empire’s most popular seaside resorts, Kadriorg was the place all the summer visitors gravitated towards, enjoying balls, promenades, illuminations and parties. The palace was designed by Italian architect Niccolo Michetti, and was used as an imperial residence right up to 1918. Now the palace houses artworks, and I was desperately trying to find one piece by the Russian Realist Ilya Repin before leaving the grounds. I was unsuccessful, however, just as I was when going to the Tretyakov Gallery two years ago to see paintings by him! The fault: renovation of those particular galleries at the Tretyakov. At least I was able to see the exterior of his dacha or country home—better than nothing!
After the Kadriorg Palace and grounds, we were picked up by bus and deposited for a quick lunch, after which a new guide for downtown joined us. We saw the following sites in Tallinn: Toompea (a stockade fort and the seat of several state and religious institutions); Upper Town, Dome Cathedral, St. Nicholas Church, where we attended an organ performance of mainly Bach’s works for a 30-minute concert; Old Town (a jumble of medieval churches, cobbled streets and gabled merchant houses); Old Town Hall and Tower (an elegant arcade of Gothic arches abd delicate, slender steeples); Town Hall Square, and the Cathedral of Alexander Nevsky (an onion-domed Russian Orthodox Cathedral).
By about 4:30 p.m. our formal sightseeing broke off and we were free to do whatever our hearts desired at will. Elaine and I decided to explore a subject near and dear to me—MARZIPAN!!!! Thanks to Maureen Fromme (you are the best), she widened my horizons and let me know that there was a bastion of marzipan right in the heart of old Tallinn. She emailed me about the cafe and museum Maiasmokk, located at the intersection of Pikk and Puehavaimu street in Old Town. The interior of the cafe has remained unchanged for almost a century. Maiasmokk is said to be the oldest cafe which is still operational in Estonia. The history of the coffee-house goes back to August 11 1806, when sugar baker Lorenz Cavietzel obtained the right to the land on which the present building stands. It was the first sugar bakery that was established here, but it was not until 1864 that the presently visible café was constructed. In 1864, the property was bought and redeveloped by the Baltic German confectioner Georg Stude, and a café has operated in the premises since then. During the late 19th century, the coffee house became renowned for its marzipan production, and clients buying marzipan included the Russian Imperial family. At the beginning of the 20th century, prior to WW II, the café received several valuable awards. In 1941, the company became nationalized, but the café continued to operate during the Soviet occupation of Estonia. In 1997, after Estonia had regained its independence, the café was registered as a private enterprise. A majority of the shares were bought by now-owner Kalev in 2004, and it is today a part of the Kalev company. In 2006 the Estonian Post Office created a postage stamp to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the cafe.
With such a pedigree, the cafe could not be ignored. Elaine had bought two stuffed animals in the outdoor market in Old Town, and then we made our way to Maiasmokk. There, I bought us each a butterfly made of marzipan. She bought us both an early dinner, and I had a very fine croissant with ham, tomato, and lettuce. Elaine had a piece of pistachio cake, and we both had sparkling water.
We stopped in a beautiful jewelry store and examined some enticing amber pieces, but bought nothing. Then we walked back to our hotel, where we are relaxing for the evening. Tomorrow we are off to the Estonian Open AIr Museum and the Estonian History Museum.
I have regaled you too kong with my tales, and you probably can’t wait for me to finish this missive. Hope all of you are well, and that you will all write me soon. With best wishes, Sylvia
Today was the first sightseeing day here in Tallinn, Estonia. As we had to adjust to the new time, both Elaine and I were awake at 4:30 a.m. and watched an amazing sunrise, as roseate clouds raced each other across the sky. So beautiful! We were glad to have the extra time to watch morning’s awakening and the busy activity of two beehives across the roof from us. As the sun’s power increased on the scene, the industrious bees swarmed here and there in what seemed like total bliss.
We were washed and dressed by 7:00 a.m., when we went downstairs to have breakfast, which had several stations appealing to any type of the hunger scale. What joy it was to have a soft-boiled egg, a truly flavorful roll and currant jelly (it is now currant ripening season all over the European continent), fresh fruit and strong but bracing coffee. Elaine and I were approached by fellow traveler (there are 24 on the trip), Rick Ludmerer from California, who ate with us and with whom we had a scintillating conversation ranging across all kinds of subjects, but concentrating mostly on great classic movies.
After breakfast, we had a lecture by a university professor, entitled “General overview of the Baltic states: Modern Estonia as a member of the EU.” He also entertained a lengthy Q & A session during and after the lecture, which surprised me as he crafted a picture of the Soviet Union as a continuing factor in the push-me, pull-you relations it has with the Baltic States as borders have been drawn but whose future as independent states from each other is still under question and unresolved.
To give you a few tidbits on Estonia’s capital, Tallinn, allow me to indulge in a bit of setup: Tallinn is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in northern Europe. The cobblestoned alleyways, slender steeples and barrel-shaped bastions of the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, could have come from a medieval manuscript. However, as medieval as it appears, it is also one of the fastest growing economies in the European Union.
Tallinn was the capital of an independent Estonia from 1918-1940, and has been the capital again from 1991 onwards. The city’s name is derived from the Estonian term which means “Danish fort”—a reminder of the fact that the city was founded by the Danes at the beginning of the 13th c. Since then, political control has been in the hands of several foreigners—Swedes, Germans, and Russians. Russians continue to make up about 45% of the population, and the Russian language persists, even though Estonian is the main language of Estonia.
Tallinn is the oldest of the three Baltic States. It began life as a fortified Estonian trading post. Its urban history began in 1219, when it was conquered by the Danes. A castle and cathedral were built on a rock now known as Toompea, and a town of merchants and craftsmen soon grew up at the base of the rock below. Most were of Flemish or German ancestry, and they called Tallinn Reval until 1918. By the 14th c. Tallinn had become a member of the Hanseatic League, a trading alliance which counted many northern cities among its members. The townspeople adopted Protestantism in the early 1500s. By 1524, lots of Catholic medieval altarpieces were destroyed in Tallinn, and monks had to flee for their lives.
Russians and Swedes fought over Tallinn in the 16th c., but Swedish control ended in 1710 when Russia’s Peter the Great’s army took the city. For the next two centuries, Tallinn was part of the Russian Empire. By the early 19th c., Tallinn had established itself as the most fashionable bathing resort in the region, with the cream of St. Petersburg society taking up residence in the town for the whole month of July. However, with the arrival of the railway in 1870, Tallinn was transformed into an important fort and industrial center, ending its days as a seaside resort.
At the beginning of the 19th c., less than one third of Tallinn’s populace had been Estonian. This proportion doubled 100 years later, and Estonia began to focus on a nationalistic movement. After WW II, Soviet rule of Estonia led to further industrialization and the construction of faceless high-rises in the suburbs to accommodate a work force largely imported from the USSR. However, Old Town, which we visited today, survived Soviet rule quite well. Estonia finally gained its independence, and membership in the EU and an influx of foreign investment helped as well. I mention these factors to show you how convoluted and delicate the situation is in this Baltic state.
The first venue we visited today was Kadriorg Park and Palace. Kadriorg is about 2 km east of Old TOwn, and we were driven there by bus. The grounds have been planted with oak, chestnut, and lime trees, crisscrossed with avenues and with a palace in its center built for Tsar Peter the Great. After his conquest of Estonia in 1711, he began planning a park as a gift to his mistress, Marta Skravonskaya, a serving girl of Lithuanian origin. She was taken as war booty by General Sheremetiev during one of his campaigs, and then was presented to Peter in 1703. She remained the tsar’s companion, becoming Empress Catherine in 1724. Peter, who supervised the planting of the trees, always intended the park to be open to the public. In the mid-19th c., when Tallinn was one of the Russian Empire’s most popular seaside resorts, Kadriorg was the place all the summer visitors gravitated towards, enjoying balls, promenades, illuminations and parties. The palace was designed by Italian architect Niccolo Michetti, and was used as an imperial residence right up to 1918. Now the palace houses artworks, and I was desperately trying to find one piece by the Russian Realist Ilya Repin before leaving the grounds. I was unsuccessful, however, just as I was when going to the Tretyakov Gallery two years ago to see paintings by him! The fault: renovation of those particular galleries at the Tretyakov. At least I was able to see the exterior of his dacha or country home—better than nothing!
After the Kadriorg Palace and grounds, we were picked up by bus and deposited for a quick lunch, after which a new guide for downtown joined us. We saw the following sites in Tallinn: Toompea (a stockade fort and the seat of several state and religious institutions); Upper Town, Dome Cathedral, St. Nicholas Church, where we attended an organ performance of mainly Bach’s works for a 30-minute concert; Old Town (a jumble of medieval churches, cobbled streets and gabled merchant houses); Old Town Hall and Tower (an elegant arcade of Gothic arches abd delicate, slender steeples); Town Hall Square, and the Cathedral of Alexander Nevsky (an onion-domed Russian Orthodox Cathedral).
By about 4:30 p.m. our formal sightseeing broke off and we were free to do whatever our hearts desired at will. Elaine and I decided to explore a subject near and dear to me—MARZIPAN!!!! Thanks to Maureen Fromme (you are the best), she widened my horizons and let me know that there was a bastion of marzipan right in the heart of old Tallinn. She emailed me about the cafe and museum Maiasmokk, located at the intersection of Pikk and Puehavaimu street in Old Town. The interior of the cafe has remained unchanged for almost a century. Maiasmokk is said to be the oldest cafe which is still operational in Estonia. The history of the coffee-house goes back to August 11 1806, when sugar baker Lorenz Cavietzel obtained the right to the land on which the present building stands. It was the first sugar bakery that was established here, but it was not until 1864 that the presently visible café was constructed. In 1864, the property was bought and redeveloped by the Baltic German confectioner Georg Stude, and a café has operated in the premises since then. During the late 19th century, the coffee house became renowned for its marzipan production, and clients buying marzipan included the Russian Imperial family. At the beginning of the 20th century, prior to WW II, the café received several valuable awards. In 1941, the company became nationalized, but the café continued to operate during the Soviet occupation of Estonia. In 1997, after Estonia had regained its independence, the café was registered as a private enterprise. A majority of the shares were bought by now-owner Kalev in 2004, and it is today a part of the Kalev company. In 2006 the Estonian Post Office created a postage stamp to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the cafe.
With such a pedigree, the cafe could not be ignored. Elaine had bought two stuffed animals in the outdoor market in Old Town, and then we made our way to Maiasmokk. There, I bought us each a butterfly made of marzipan. She bought us both an early dinner, and I had a very fine croissant with ham, tomato, and lettuce. Elaine had a piece of pistachio cake, and we both had sparkling water.
We stopped in a beautiful jewelry store and examined some enticing amber pieces, but bought nothing. Then we walked back to our hotel, where we are relaxing for the evening. Tomorrow we are off to the Estonian Open AIr Museum and the Estonian History Museum.
I have regaled you too kong with my tales, and you probably can’t wait for me to finish this missive. Hope all of you are well, and that you will all write me soon. With best wishes, Sylvia
I have been looking forward to your blog of the Baltic States tour. You have not disappointed me with your beautiful photos and capsule of Estonian history. My mouth is watering for marzipan. I never would have associated it with that region. Carry on!
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ReplyDeleteCurrant season AND local Marzipan!? You may have arrived in your version of heaven!
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