June 23: Sedona

Dear All,  

Another great day, but hot as blazes!  It cooled off, however, last night, and we had a great, comfortable mattress, so we had a restful night not bothered by any wildlife in the area.  I got up early in order to enjoy the sunrise, and Alexandra followed suit a bit later.  Cerulean blue sky, and those umber-colored rocks made for a stunning combination.  

Once we had gotten ready for the day, the first venue we visited was the Chapel of the Holy Cross, inspired and commissioned by local rancher and sculptor Marguerite Staude, who had been inspired in 1932 by the newly constructed Empire State Building to build such a church.  After an attempt to do so in Budapest, Hungary was aborted due to the outbreak of WW II, she decided to build the church in her native region.  

The chapel is on Coconino Forest land, and was completed in 1956.  The American Institute of Architects gave the chapel its Award of Honor in 1957.  In 2007, Arizonans voted the chapel to be one of the Seven Man-Made Wonders of Arizona.  It is also the site of one of the so-called Sedona vortices, special places that emit subtle forms of positive energy that soothe the inner self, as an alternative form of healing.  The Chapel, though Catholic in faith, has a universal appeal to everyone, regardless of creed.  Christ is represented as crucified, but arising out of a cliff face much as plants and trees cling onto the sides of the hills, and providing health, rebirth and nurture to the souls of all men and women, becoming, in the process, a living reality.  Stunning hike up to the Chapel, and the views were stupendous.  On the way, we stopped by several fountains, gardens, and water moments, among them one small garden and sculpture of St. Francis of Assisi.

Our next spot, since we hadn’t had breakfast as yet, was to stop by a donut place called, cleverly, Sedonuts, where we had coffee and donuts, an inspired pairing.  From there we were off to Crystal Magic and Mystical Bazaar to see the various stones, incense, jewelry, crystals, gems, New Age books and Tarot cards. 

Our next stop was Tlaquepaque, an Arts and Crafts village nestled beneath the shade of sycamores, on the banks of Oak Creek in Sedona.  It is the most distinctive shopping experience in the Southwest, and is authentically fashioned after a traditional Mexican village.  Its name means “best of everything.”  It has been a Sedona landmark since the 1970s.  Its vine-covered stucco walls, cobblestoned walkways, and magnificent arched entryways give the feeling that Tlaquepaque has been around for centuries.  There are tasteful galleries and unique shops, and it is surrounded by a lush environment.  Giant sycamores stand in testimony to the care taken to preserve the beauty of its grounds.  We went into a few specialty shops and glass galleries before getting in the car and leaving for a wonderful restaurant called Dellepiano, where we had yucca fries (my first and completely addictive); Tostones, which are smashed plantains with avocado and lime on top, and then Cubanitos, which is a sandwich cut into nice amuse-bouche pieces and filled with pork, smoked ham, Pepper Jack cheese, mustard and pickles.  One of the best lunches I have ever had!

From lunch we went to the Sedona Heritage Museum, a good place to procure our historical bearings and learn about the ranching and farming life in this area.  We roamed the grounds, inspected a barn, and learned about the many Hollywood films that had been shot here, dating back to 1923.  The big studios and big-time directors loved the compelling, quintessential American West backdrop.  Many A-list actors worked in the area.  Even Elvis Presley shot a film here called “Stay Away Joe,” in which he played a Native American rodeo driver.  James Stewart’s “Broken Arrow,” Joan Crawford’s “Johnny Guitar,” and Robert De Niro’s “Midnight Run” were among the favorites.

Then, Alexandra treated us both to a 90-minute massage, snacks, and then a foot scrub and reflexology session at Uptown Massage—a true treat of major proportions.  I felt twice as energized when we finished, and from there, we set off to check out a few more crystal and rock stores in the vicinity.  I had bought several different kinds of jasper stones, one malachite and one lapis lazuli, so I was fine.  In the beautiful early evening light, we made our way to an Italian restaurant, ordered a pizza and took it home.  We are exhausted, but it. Has been a red-letter day!  As ever, Sylvia.