SWEDISQH SOJOURN, Day 11, June 30

Today, we woke up to lowering skies and the threat of rain, which would, however, clear to bright skies with wispy clouds later on in the day. Without a doubt, Stockholm, in my mind, can be considered to be one of the most beautiful cities of Europe. It is built on no fewer than 14 islands, where the fresh water of Lake Malaren meets the brackish Baltic Sea. Clean air and open spaces are in good supply here. One-third of the area within the city limits is made up of water, while another third comprises parks and woodlands, including the world's first urban national park, where you can swim and fish minutes from the city center. Broad boulevards lined with elegant buildings are reflected in the water. Yet Stockholm is also a high-tech metropolis with skyscrapers and a vibrant commercial heart. Stockholm is considered to be one of Europe's saner cities and a delightful place in which to spend time. The archipelago that makes up Stockholm, on Lake Malaren, consists of a staggering 24,000 islands, islets, and rocks, as the Swedish mainland splinters into the Baltic Sea. We began a morning tour of Stockholm by bus, and then got off at the Vasa Ship Museum, which we toured with Agneta, as well as City Hall, and later the Royal apartments. Eventually, we also toured Gamla Stan, or the Old Town, on our own. Gamla Stan was the site of the original settlement of Stockholm, first mentioned in ancient documents as a town in 1252. Today the area is an atmospheric mixture of buildings surrounded on all sides by a latticework of medieval lanes and alleyways. Close by is the tiny island of Skeppsholmen. To the north, the district of Norrmalm has a more contemporary feel. To the SE lies the green park island of Djurgarden, and here was our first venue: the Vasa Museum. It was a 17th c. warship that was rescued and preserved 300 years after its sinking in Stockholm harbor. Housedn in an oddly shaped building is the Vasa warship, the pride of the Swedish fleet. It was built on the orders of King Gustav II Adolf, but sank in Stockholm harbor on her maiden voyage in 1628. A victim of engineering miscalculation and insufficient maritime knowledge, the Vasa's hull was too narrow to withstand even the slightest swell which, when coupled with top-heavy rigging, made her a maritime disaster. On August 10 she went down with all hands barely a few meters from her moorings. Preserved in mud for over 300 years, the ship was raised along with 12,000 objects in 1961, and now forms the centerpiece of a purpose-built hall on the water's edge. The museum is impressive, but nothing prepares you for the sheer size of the ship. She is 62 meters long and the main mast was originally 50 meters above the keel. it sits in a cradle of supporting mechanical tackle. Surrounding walkways bring you face to face with the cannon hatches, the restored decorative relief, etc. Adjoining halls and presentations on several levels focus on items retrieved, life on board, models of the Vasa, displays concerning contemporary social and political life, and a film about the rescue operation. An amazing museum, and well worth seeing. Tourists were pretty thick here, but we soldiered on manfully. Our next stop, on the island of Kungsholmen, was the Stadshuset or City Hall, only a matter of minutes from the central train station. Finished in 1923, the Stadshuset is one of the landmarks of modern Stockholm and one of the first buildings you see when you approach the city from the S by train. Exterior brickwork is simple, with no preparation for the intriguing detail inside. There is a Viking-style legislative center and an impressively echoing Golden Hall, and it is where the Nobel ceremonies, dinner, and dances following the awarding of the prizes are held. Afterwards, we took pictures from the outside of the hall, facing Lake Malaren, and a couple, in their wedding finery, were being photographed. We climbed into the bus once more, and Haakon took us to our next venue, the Kungliga Slottet, or Royal Palace, to watch the changing of the guard. We got there just in time, and I was at an advantageous vantage point to film the marching soldiers and drummers passing by. Right before we got off the bus, we bid farewell to Haakon, who was going to leave us for his hometown of Lungby, about six hours away. It was sad to bid him adieu, as he had proven to be a kind and helpful bus driver and human being. By this time, lunchtime was approaching, and Agneta suggested we follow her to a Restaurang Kaffeegilet, which had a basement that had been around since the 1200s. I had an excellent goulash soup, some divine bread, and a cup of hot tea. When we returned outside, the sun was starting to shine, and it warmed up considerably. We proceeded to the Kungliga Slottet or Royal Palace. Finished in 1754, the palace is uniform and sober outside. But it has a magnificent Rococo interior of staterooms and museums. Its size is overwhelming. The rooms of state used for royal receptions are known as the Palace Apartments, and hold a collection of furniture and tapestries that is incredible. The visit took about two hours under Agneta's tutelage. After the tour, she left us to our own devices until 5:00. Kristen and I peeled off and went to a cafe, since it was high time for the European coffee hour, a custom I miss so much in the US. I had a kind of apple pie with crumble on the top as well as whipped cream, and a glorious cup of coffee. Fortified, we made our way to the German Church, which had been built for the well to do German merchant class who resided in Stockholm. it contained, among other features, a set of stained glass windows illustrating the Lord's Prayer, the first time I had ever seen it depicted in stained glass. Afterwards, we strolled the waterfront and took pictures of the tall masted ships and the important or interesting buildings that caught our eyes. Finally, we returned to our central meeting point next to the Royal Apartments, and then proceeded to the Gamla Stan subway stop. Quite a few of the group had trouble handling the subway map of a city so new to them, which was, of course, to be expected. I bought a 24-hour pass to be used until 5:00 tomorrow afternoon. I plan to be at the Skogskyrkogarden cemetery tomorrow in time for the 10:30 tour, and then a walk through the entire cemetery. I also want to lay flowers at Greta Garbo's grave. But more of that plan and other thoughts tomorrow. It is now 8:10, and during the writing of this missive, I have been drinking a Fanta and eating a salmon roll up that I bought for dinner. Weather continues to be beautiful, and I am enjoying the mellowness of Lake Malaren outside my window. Good night, dear friends! Will I ever hear from any of you? Please write! As ever, Sylvia