CALIFORNIA, Day 8, June 28, 2011
To all of you, a good day! Writing to you this evening from the rainy town of Calistoga, in the bosom of Sonoma wine country.
We woke to an overcast sky and quickly packed a few things for our two-day swing through Napa and Sonoma wine country. The hills of Napa and Sonoma valleys are about an hour north of San Francisco, and are by reputation at the center of the American wine industry. Less than 5% of California's wine comes from the region, but what it does produce is considered America's best. Our first stop was the town of Sonoma, where our mission was to see the restored Mission San Francisco Solano de Sonoma, just east of the spacious plaza in Sonoma. It was the last and northernmost of the California missions, and the only one established in northern California by the nervous Mexican rulers, who were fearful of expansionist Russian fur traders. The plaza there was also the sight of the Bear Flag Revolt, the 1846 action that propelled California into independence from Mexico, and then statehood.
We had lunch at a very good Mexican restaurant across from the Mission, and by this time it was about 3:00 p.m. and also made it to a wonderful gallery of the photographs of Lisa Kristine.
Many of Sonoma's wineries are concentrated east of the plaza, but one of the most famous, the Benziger Family Winery, which we tried to visit later on in the afternoon, was already closed when we reached it. We were able to drive the grounds, however, admiring the vineyards basking in the fog that hugged the terraced vines. From there we also drove to Jack London State Park, sitting on 140 acres of ranchland owned by the famed author of "Call of the Wild." Here you find the author's final resting place as well as a museum that houses a collection of souvenirs that he picked up while traveling the globe. Again, it was closed, so we plan to come back tomorrow.
In order to get in one good vineyard at least, we traveled northward to the town of Calistoga, which is at the very northern tip of the Sonoma Valley. It is well know for its mud baths, whirlpools and mineral water, though its wineries are just as appealing. We went to the beautiful winery, Chateau St. Jean, but weren't as interested in the tastings as we were in the beautiful grounds, which we photographed. Not only was there a tasting room--it was surrounded by a beautiful estate and gardens which, with their intense green hues against the gray of the rainy afternoon, exercised a very hypnotic, eerie effect on anyone who contemplated them for more than a passing moment.
Following our photography session, it was on to the Carlin Cabins in Calistoga, to a cabin which sports a sitting room, a kitchen, bathroom, and bedroom--very nice to be able to prepare a simple meal at night, and outside we have a whirlpool and swimming pool, which I will perhaps make use of later.
We went back downtown for a stroll through the main drag, photographing all the interesting storefronts and window displays, and then picked up some Calistoga fizzy waters (you see, Maureen and I are not really intense wine drinkers), We are going to go to several wine tastings tomorrow, as our hotel has provided us with several "two-for-one" tasting vouchers for Markham and Rutherford wineries. I am particularly interested in going to Clos Pegase, near here, which is supposed to be a flamboyant, high-profile winery with a sculpture garden as well. But I think the winery on tap tomorrow that intrigues me most is the Castello di Amorosa, a 12th century Tuscan castle that was transported in its entirety to a setting between Calistoga and St. Helena. But we might add another one or two as we study our maps and materials tonight--it is always worth doing the homework before starting out. More tomorrow!
I hope all of you are doing well and are keeping cool. Take care, and let me hear from you, as the spirit moves you. Maureen, my fellow traveler, says hello. As ever, Sylvia
We woke to an overcast sky and quickly packed a few things for our two-day swing through Napa and Sonoma wine country. The hills of Napa and Sonoma valleys are about an hour north of San Francisco, and are by reputation at the center of the American wine industry. Less than 5% of California's wine comes from the region, but what it does produce is considered America's best. Our first stop was the town of Sonoma, where our mission was to see the restored Mission San Francisco Solano de Sonoma, just east of the spacious plaza in Sonoma. It was the last and northernmost of the California missions, and the only one established in northern California by the nervous Mexican rulers, who were fearful of expansionist Russian fur traders. The plaza there was also the sight of the Bear Flag Revolt, the 1846 action that propelled California into independence from Mexico, and then statehood.
We had lunch at a very good Mexican restaurant across from the Mission, and by this time it was about 3:00 p.m. and also made it to a wonderful gallery of the photographs of Lisa Kristine.
Many of Sonoma's wineries are concentrated east of the plaza, but one of the most famous, the Benziger Family Winery, which we tried to visit later on in the afternoon, was already closed when we reached it. We were able to drive the grounds, however, admiring the vineyards basking in the fog that hugged the terraced vines. From there we also drove to Jack London State Park, sitting on 140 acres of ranchland owned by the famed author of "Call of the Wild." Here you find the author's final resting place as well as a museum that houses a collection of souvenirs that he picked up while traveling the globe. Again, it was closed, so we plan to come back tomorrow.
In order to get in one good vineyard at least, we traveled northward to the town of Calistoga, which is at the very northern tip of the Sonoma Valley. It is well know for its mud baths, whirlpools and mineral water, though its wineries are just as appealing. We went to the beautiful winery, Chateau St. Jean, but weren't as interested in the tastings as we were in the beautiful grounds, which we photographed. Not only was there a tasting room--it was surrounded by a beautiful estate and gardens which, with their intense green hues against the gray of the rainy afternoon, exercised a very hypnotic, eerie effect on anyone who contemplated them for more than a passing moment.
Following our photography session, it was on to the Carlin Cabins in Calistoga, to a cabin which sports a sitting room, a kitchen, bathroom, and bedroom--very nice to be able to prepare a simple meal at night, and outside we have a whirlpool and swimming pool, which I will perhaps make use of later.
We went back downtown for a stroll through the main drag, photographing all the interesting storefronts and window displays, and then picked up some Calistoga fizzy waters (you see, Maureen and I are not really intense wine drinkers), We are going to go to several wine tastings tomorrow, as our hotel has provided us with several "two-for-one" tasting vouchers for Markham and Rutherford wineries. I am particularly interested in going to Clos Pegase, near here, which is supposed to be a flamboyant, high-profile winery with a sculpture garden as well. But I think the winery on tap tomorrow that intrigues me most is the Castello di Amorosa, a 12th century Tuscan castle that was transported in its entirety to a setting between Calistoga and St. Helena. But we might add another one or two as we study our maps and materials tonight--it is always worth doing the homework before starting out. More tomorrow!
I hope all of you are doing well and are keeping cool. Take care, and let me hear from you, as the spirit moves you. Maureen, my fellow traveler, says hello. As ever, Sylvia
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